48 Hours In The Loire Valley

a quick escape from paris

We had our first visitors last week (!!) and we got to wander around Paris showing them our favorite spots. I promise a Paris guide is coming soon — I’m making sure it’s just right! If you’re coming to Paris and want recommendations in the meantime, feel free to DM me and I’ll happily share my favorites.

Now, let’s get into our weekend away from Paris!

Getting There

Technically, it was a Tuesday to Thursday adventure, but it had the energy of a weekend getaway. While 48 hours isn’t nearly enough time to fully explore the Loire Valley, it is absolutely doable as an add on to an existing Paris itinerary. We ended up renting a car since it was cheaper than buying four train tickets. Truth be told, a car in the Loire Valley does give you more flexibility and I would say it’s almost a must. We had originally planned to take the train to Tours and pick up a rental car there, but driving from Paris turned out to be more cost and time effective.

ps — you’ll find more automatic rental options in Paris since it’s a bigger city. Most places in the French countryside tend to be manual. Something to consider as you plan your trip!

What I Wore

My husband claims I overpacked, but I think I was strategic. Here's a quick outfit diary:

Day One

It was sunny and warm when we arrived so I immediately changed out of my comfy drive outfit and into the gingham dress I’ve been looking forward to rewearing from last summer. I added my linen trench coat to shield me from the sun and provide some extra warmth for later in the evening. I paired the look with my trusty flats. After settling in, we roamed around the property before heading out to Amboise.

trench (gifted) | dress | flats (on sale) | purse

Day Two

Rain was unfortunately on the agenda, so I dressed accordingly. I re-wore an outfit from the week before — including this sweater I can't stop wearing, my favorite linen-cotton trousers I bought last spring and these ballerinas I had just received a few days prior. I added my trench to the look to beat the rain’s arrival. I felt chic yet comfortable for a full day of château visits.

trench | sweater (gifted) | trousers (same fabric, different shape here) | t-shirt | purse | ballerinas (gifted)

Last Day

It was chillier that morning and since we were heading back to Paris, I kept it simple: a comfy pair of jeans and a sweater. Nothing fancy nor photo worthy — though you can see the outfit in motion on the last slide here.

Where We Stayed

We stayed east of Tours, about 45 minutes from the city and 20 minutes from Amboise — perfectly located for our château visits. Les Hauts de Loire was serene, beautifully kept and recommended by the Michelin Guide. I only wish we had an extra day to enjoy the pool and restaurant. The included breakfast was plentiful and delicious. The first morning I was offered hot chocolate in lieu of coffee and it was lovely. Hot chocolate every morning? Yes, please. The service was also impeccable. The staff was incredibly kind and flexible.

the greenery was unreal

We stayed in the château, but you also have the option to stay in the carriage house or pavilion if you prefer.

left: our room was black & olive green themed | right: a view of the carriage house

We spent our last morning biking around and exploring the 70 hectare property. Apart from enjoying a bike ride, you can also play tennis, dip into their heated pool or unwind in the spa. While I didn’t see any children during our stay, the hotel is family friendly — they even have a kids play center.

If you’re planning on going to the Loire valley, I’d recommend mapping out the châteaux you want to visit and find a hotel centrally located between them. That said, the countryside is beautiful and cruising through the winding roads and small towns is a real treat.

4: le château & restaurant | 5: carriage house | 6: spa | 7: cooking school | 8: le potager (kitchen garden) | 9: le bistrot du domaine | 10: l’allée du grand cerf | 11: l’étang des cygnes blancs ( white swan pond) | 16: pavillon

ps — Les Hauts de Loire is part of the Relais & Chateau group and have over 500 properties worldwide. I currently have my eye on Domaine de Primard for our next getaway.

What We Visited & Where We Ate

Day One

Château Royal d’Amboise

We had a few hours to enjoy before our dinner reservation, so we decided to squeeze in a visit to Château Royal d’Amboise. We arrived about 45 minutes before closing, which meant we practically had the château to ourselves. It was sunny, and the clear skies allowed us to see an expansive panoramic view of the Loire valley. My favorite part was the gardens where you found manicured lawns and spring flowers in full bloom. If you’re a Leonardo da Vinci fan, you can find his burial place in the small chapel on the property.

The most captivating thing for me was this dress, I could see someone frolicking through the loire valley with this on today. The view at the top was also incredible!

ps — if you have more time in Amboise, check out Château de Clos Lucé — it’s about a quarter mile from Château Royal d’Amboise. It’s where Leonardo da Vinci lived the final years of his life.

I sat on a bench and enjoyed the greenery of the garden

Dinner at L’Ecluse | reservations encouraged

We opted for a culinary forward experience and L’Ecluse delivered. We spent over three hours dining al fresco on the terrace. It’s very common to enjoy a full meal: entrée (starter) and plat (main dish) and dessert. If you’re feeling gourmet, you can also enjoy a cheese course before dessert.

left: we were brought an amuse-bouche to start off the experience | right: the entrée my husband ordered that I kept sneaking bites from

L’Ecluse followed a formule style menu, where you select your meal combinations upfront. We had all worked up an appetite and selected a three-course meal. Later on, my husband and friend added a cheese tasting to their lineup. I may have stolen a few bites off my husband’s plate for research purposes, of course. Prior to receiving our dessert, we were given a pre-dessert and they had us guess what was in each bite. I loved the attention to detail and the ceremony of food, its flavors and the pairings.

left: probably my favorite dessert of the trip — i’m a sucker for strawberry anything | right: you got to pick 3 to 4 cheese options for your cheese plate

ps — we all enjoyed wine from the region and it didn’t disappoint. You can also find non-alcoholic bubbly wine — I was curious and ultimately a little disappointed. I would order a lemonade over the non-alcoholic version.

Day Two

Château de Chenonceau

Second to Versailles, Chenonceau is the most visited castle in France. It’s well preserved and full of rich history — especially of the women who shaped it. It’s also known as The Ladies’ Château due to the various women who “owned” and managed its extension and creation throughout time.

It was gifted to Diane de Poitiers by King Henry II, only to be taken back by his wife, Catherine de' Medici, after his death. Their respective gardens still remain, both are situated across from each other. Diane’s garden on the left of the château and Catherine’s to the right side. Both are connected by a dramatic central walkway that leads to the castle.

exploring the maze (or as my husband referred to it as: the place Bridgerton characters would most likely sneak off and be found in compromising circumstances)

We didn’t have time to explore the Dômes Building, if you have time, add it to your itinerary!

Lunch at Mon Jardin Resto | no reservation required

After Chenonceau, we drove about 15 minutes to this charming spot for lunch. It’s a restaurant slash traiteur which means it’s a shop where you can get food to go. The menu was small, but satisfying. I wasn’t super hungry, so I sipped on a blueberry lemonade while my husband and I split a salad with falafel and a chicken sandwich. The meal was delicious and the perfect casual lunch between our château visits.

salads in France aren’t often what you expect, but I’ve come to love them

Château de Chambord

Chambord is iconic and legend has it that it inspired the castle in the Beauty and the Beast. As soon as you walk up, you can understand why. It’s impressive and majestic from the outside.

The interior is relatively sparse compared to other châteaux I’ve been to. Our friends rented a tablet audio guide while my husband and I opted to wander without. If I were to visit again, I definitely would go with the audio guide. The few furnished rooms were lovely, but a majority of the experience is architectural. Our friends mentioned that the audio guide recreates the original rooms virtually and showcases what the rooms would have been decorated with throughout several time periods.

This château was mostly used as a hunting lodge, a marker of wealth and as a way to impress others vs one that was inhabited full time. I highly encourage you to roam the gardens or even enjoy a quiet moment among the trees on a bench.

Dinner at Brut Maison de Cuisine | reservations encouraged

This was another lovely meal. The menu was smaller, but every dish was crafted with intention and care. Every bite was incredible. My husband and I shared a biscuit infused with langoustine. It almost tricked your brain because the consistency was bread-y but with a taste of langoustine — absolutely divine.

not pictured: another delicious dessert

I ordered the fish of the day and it made me question why I don’t choose the fish option on the menu more often. For dessert, we shared agastache sorbet topped with strawberries and meringue We ate dinner as the sun went down and it was the perfect way to finish our last full day in the Loire Valley.

Night Cap

After arriving back at the hotel, we still had a bit of social battery left. We met in the hotel’s gathering room for a drink and a game of chess. I opted for hot chocolate while my husband and friend tried a glass of eau-de-vie de marc — it’s brandy that’s been around since the 18th century in France and it’s made from “marc” aka leftover grapes from the winemaking process. My husband wasn’t a fan, but he said when in Rome (Loire Valley) it’s a fun regional tasting to try.

along with my hot chocolate, they brought me financiers to enjoy

Last Day

We had a few hours until checkout, so we decided to grab a few bikes and roam around the 70 hectare property. It was a great way to get some fresh air before the 3 hour drive back to Paris. It was also a nice reprieve from the hustle and bustle of a big city.

Additional Château

If you have extra time, add Château de Villandry to your list! Back in 2019, I joined my now-husband’s family on a trip to the French countryside for their annual family visit. During that trip, my now mother-in-law planned a few visits to châteaux to the west of Tours. I still fondly recall visiting Château de Villandry. The gardens were beautiful and the interiors were very well preserved.

All featured items mentioned here.

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Spring in France might just be my new favorite season. The flowers are blooming, the weather is often sunny but mild and you generally have less crowds in comparison to summer. Have you been to the Loire Valley? What châteaux did you visit and love? I’d love to know!

xx Ofelia

Disclaimer: some links are affiliate links, which means I may receive a very small percentage from a sale. As always, anything that is linked are things I either own, recommend or would purchase myself.

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