Mexico (City) Lindo y Querido
over 50 recs to curate your perfect experience
Mexico will always feel like home. I was born in the US but grew up in a Mexican and Spanish speaking household. The 90s era was very different for me than the average teenager growing up in the US at the same time.
If you don’t 100% get the title, it's a play on a song I grew up listening to at home. My upbringing was filled with Mexican music that ranged in genre but Ranchera music (my mom’s favorite) was always on heavy rotation.
Our friends tend to escape the Austin summers and this year they spent a month in Mexico City. It was the perfect excuse (like we needed one!) to go back to the city. I can eat the staple foods of Mexico for every meal and never get tired of it. Having access to really good food (read: tacos) for four days had me in utter and complete bliss. First, a quick story about our hotel and then you’ll get a list of delicious food, shopping and things to do. Can’t wait? Click here.
Casa Cleo
Anytime we travel we are bound by my husband’s 10x points hotel options. I'm not complaining but depending on the city, we have slim pickings. Thankfully, we are typically in good hands and that was no exception for this trip. We picked Casa Cleo mainly due to its proximity to our friend’s Airbnb — a short 10 minute walk away.
The hotel was previously an hacienda that got subdivided by the city into “smaller” homes. The hotel itself was a decent size with 7 rooms total. We stayed in Studio Bisú and it was perfect for 4 days. The bathroom was a generous size and had a bathtub. We also had plenty of space to hang our clothes and tuck away luggage. The location is incredible for exploring and walking around Roma Norte. The staff was incredibly friendly, welcoming and had wonderful recommendations. We would 100% stay here again.
Every morning we awoke to the chirping of birds. After the first night, we got used to waking up to them — we didn’t mind at all, but, if you’re a light sleeper or prefer to not be woken up by birds, this might not be the hotel for you.
During our stay, we were told that Casa Cleo was named after the hacienda’s owner’s daughter's bird, Cleo. The daughter had lots of birds as pets and after her parents died she started releasing the birds outside. Cleo was one of the few birds that came back and he would sing a particular song every morning. To this day, they say the spirit of Cleo lives on and if you listen closely, you can hear the song of Cleo standing out over the rest each morning.
Food
Bakeries & Breakfast
Cafe Nin — Owned by Elena Reygadas, who was named the best female chef of 2023. We’ve been here twice and both times had a lovely breakfast and service. My favorite thing from here is the Coconut, Macadamia and Cardamom juice. I dream of it to this day.
Side note: the first 3 are owned by Reygadas. I didn't know this when I visited them, but I loved them all so I’m not surprised they all made their way to this list.
Panadería Rosetta — If you’ve heard about Mexico City, I’m sure you’ve definitely heard of Panadería Rosetta. If you’ve been to Cafe Nin or Bella Aurora, you’ve most likely had their baked goods. Everything is divine, so you can’t go wrong with anything here. I had a green juice on our last day and it’s something I wish I could sip on daily.
Bella Aurora — We had breakfast here on our initial visit. We wanted Rosetta pastries but were not near the original Panadería Rosetta. As we were waiting in line at the bakery, we were asked if we wanted breakfast. When we said yes, we were led to the restaurant upstairs that had an array of pastries, coffee, juice and breakfast options to enjoy. It was practically empty for a Saturday morning and a great option if you’re in the neighborhood and aren’t up for the hustle and bustle.
Saint — We stopped here for a pre-dinner snack and hangout with our friends. It was a chilly evening, so I enjoyed a hot chocolate and a pastry while our friends enjoyed beer. You can find outside seating that is tented. The atmosphere was chill and the staff were friendly. A great place to stop and take a break if you’re looking to rest your legs.
Mendl Delicatessen — We stumbled upon this place during our walk and decided to go back for breakfast. If you’re passing by, you can grab a drink and pastry to go. On our first visit, we picked up a cappuccino, matcha, a matcha concha and a croissant filled with vanilla creme dipped in chocolate. Everything we had was delicious and it was the main motivator to come back for breakfast. When we returned for breakfast, it was equally delicious.
Palo de Rosa Café — For our next visit, we will be going here per our friend’s recommendation. She raved about the Roll de Arroz con Leche and their Horchata Brew. My friend also spoke highly of the chilaquiles verdes.
Pastelería Ideal — If you’re looking to pick up pan dulce, this is the place to go. It’s filled with people and can sometimes feel a bit chaotic but this place is churning out pastries like no other. You pick out your bread and then drop it off to get packaged. While it’s getting packaged, you pay, get a ticket and then pick up your bread after.
Tierra Garat — You can find these coffee shops all over the city. They are great if you’re looking for a quick drink and not in the mood to look for another option. They have a delicious Guava Lemonade that I sipped on while we explored Roma Norte.
Casual Spots
El Progreso — The best tacos I’ve had in Mexico City. I know “best” is suggestive, but our first time in Mexico City we asked a local for their favorite taco place and they suggested this. We went and we were blown away. Since then, we’ve gone multiple times and taken friends who have then taken their friends. When I think of tacos, this is what I dream of. They have two stations — I’ve only ordered from one since I prefer handmade tortillas with bistec. You order your meat of choice and can ask for cheese (con queso), if you’d like. After you’re given your tacos, you can add your desired fix-ins. You can also order an agua fresca to enjoy with your tacos. This is a place where knowing Spanish is helpful because it’s fast paced and you need to be ready to order once you get to the front of the line.
El Gato Volador — Our favorite street tacos. We’ve eaten here 5+ times and taken several friend groups. It was also a spot lots of locals were eating at. That’s my number 1 tip if you’re curious about street food — look out for places the locals are also enjoying a meal. This place is cash only and you pay at the end by telling them how many tacos you ate.
Doña Vero — We met our friends for dinner on our first night here. It offered a mixture of pre-hispanic and Mexican food with an emphasis on health conscious offerings. A great option if you’re looking for a variety of options.
Comal Oculto — This was recommended by Olivia from Chava Studio. Everything we had was absolutely delicious. I would 100% go back. It is better suited for smaller groups as there is only one large table. You put your name in and they fit in your group as others finish. We had a group of 8 with us, which made it slightly more challenging. We did manage to get seated. You order one dish at a time, and then the waiter comes by to ask if you’d like to order more. Close to Chapultepec Park if you’d like to walk over after.
Jenni’s Quesadillas — A street vendor we didn’t manage to make it to. Our friends went several times and said they loved the quesadillas every time. Their favorite quesadillas were the picadillo, pollo and sencillas (just cheese!).
Mi Compa Chava Marisquería — Another recommendation from our friends who found this toward the end of their stay. They raved about the agua chiles verdes and only wish they had found this sooner to go back a few more times.
Taqueria Orinoco — We stumbled upon these the first time we were in Mexico City. I had seen them all over TikTok and was a little apprehensive to be honest. I think these tacos are geared toward tourists, and the prices say so (in comparison to what you can find elsewhere). With that said, they were good and if you’re hungry for a bite and near one it’s a great option.
Restaurants
We didn’t do a lot of restaurants, but here are a few we enjoyed and a few for our future visit.
Blanco Colima — My in-laws wanted to treat us to a meal and since we were too busy with wedding planning (we visited CDMX directly after our wedding in 2023!), we never got around to booking a reservation in advance. They were hoping to get to experience Pujol, but we knew last minute reservations would be impossible. Contramar was the next best option, but our hotel wasn’t able to get us in either. They had suggested a few options and we landed on Blanco Colima. We had a blast, the food and drinks were delicious. We were obviously in great company, but I recall having such a wonderful experience here.
Contramar — On the list, but we haven’t managed to go. We’ve heard nothing but excellent things. I would book reservations at least 2 months in advance otherwise you’re not getting in.
Entremar — It’s Contramar’s sister restaurant and easier to get into. We were able to make last minute reservations, but our party expanded beyond the reservation allowance so we had to forgo it for another option. We’ve heard it's just as lovely as Contramar and has a similarly inspired menu.
il Fiorino — Our friends immediately texted us after they ate dinner here. I’m incredibly sad I wasn’t there to enjoy it with them. They spoke to the chef who moved from Italy over 10 years ago. They continue to rave about the mussel pasta to this day. This is also at the top of the list for our next visit.
Wabi Sushi — Another place we visited on our first trip. I do not recall what we ate, but everyone remembers it being delicious. If you’re craving sushi, this is a great spot to check out.
Rosetta – You can say I’m a Reygadas fan. I want to try her flagship restaurant on a future visit. It’s an a la carte menu that rotates constantly with the seasons and what’s available. In 2023, it was named one of the best 50 restaurants in the world. This year it was awarded a Michelin star.
Drinks & Desserts
Tlecan — My husband loves mezcal and during our first visit to Mexico City, he took us here on one of our last nights. The cocktails are insanely delicious and inventive. If you’re brave enough, you can ask for a botana which includes chapulines (roasted crickets!). The staff is incredibly friendly and I love that as soon as you walk in you’re greeted with a tiny glass of water. We’ve been a handful of times and the service has been top notch. Instead of exploring new places, we just go back to Tlecan because we love it so much.
Helado Bonito — On one of our last night’s here I was craving ice cream and my husband found this shop. Apart from ice cream, they had crepes, waffles, drinks and coffee. I remember the ice cream being insanely delicious. They also have vegan options!
Churros El Morro — I almost didn’t include this, because we didn’t have the best experience here. We waited 5 minutes for a fresh batch of churros and our churros were brick hard and cold. However, our friends loved their experience and raved about how great they were. We went to different locations, so maybe that’s the secret? They went to the one in El Centro, and we went to the one in Condesa. I say give it a try if you’re near one and in the mood for a sweet treat!
More Places For The Future
A few more places we’ve bookmarked for the future. If you try one, let me know!
Elena 147 — A cake shop that has nearly 5 stars and a lot of praise.
Ficelle — A bakery specializing in French baked goods.
Castizo — If you’re feeling Spanish food.
Antolina — A tribute to the women of Mexican cuisine.
OPPA — Homestyle Korean food with really good reviews.
Expendio de Maiz Sin Nombre — One I will 100% be going to when we’re back in CDMX. The concept looks so cool and I love the inventiveness of the menu that changes daily.
Cariñito Tacos — There is no seating, you order at the window and enjoy your tacos while standing up.
Things To Do
Casa Estudio Luis Barragán — I would check everyday for tickets until they release for your desired date. Both times I’ve attempted a visit, I missed the release window. From what I could tell, the release window isn’t super consistent. I checked on a Monday and the tickets weren’t released yet. I assumed I was 1 week early. I checked back a few days later and they were sold out.
Casa Ortega — The first house Barragán designed for himself. He only lived there for a few years before moving down the street to Casa Barragán.
Casa Gilardi — It was the last project Barragán worked on. It is not as well known and a bit easier to get reservations to.
Lucha Libre — We didn’t make it to this due to timing, but our friends went a few weeks after our visit and had a lot of fun. It is recommended you book directly through the site vs an Airbnb experience if you’d like to save some money!
Piramides de Teotihuacan — Highly recommend a trip to the pyramids! We booked it directly through our hotel. It included tickets to the pyramids, lunch and a souvenir shop. I would recommend a hat or an umbrella for protection against the sun. There is no coverage from the sun or shade to escape to. Also pack lots of water!
Museo Rufino Tamayo — A Mexican painter who fused European style such as surrealism with Mexican culture. You can find a few of his paintings at Museo Soumaya.
Museo Nacional de Antropología — The largest and most visited museum in Mexico. You can easily spend all day inside and still not have enough time to see everything. A museum worth visiting several times. We made it through half of one floor before it was time go to dinner.
Museo Soumaya — A privately owned museum that is free to the public. It has one of the largest private Rodin collections outside of Paris among other beautiful pieces of art.
Bosque de Chapultepec — I recommend a walk through this expansive park. It’s more than double the size of Central Park. Inside the park (and adjacent to), you can find museums, a zoo and a large lake.
Chapultepec Castle — One I was sad to miss on our last visit. It was once the residence of emperors and presidents and today it houses the National History Museum. The pictures of the castle are absolutely breathtaking.
Biblioteca Vasconcelos — You have probably seen the beautiful videos of this library. It’s a bit north and requires a taxi depending on where you are. We didn’t manage to go but hoping to make it on our next trip!
Museo Frida Kahlo — You can walk through Kahlo’s blue home and learn about her life, where she painted, view some of her clothing and wander through the garden she enjoyed. We were able to get tickets the week of, but highly recommend booking ahead.
Museo Jumex — Next to the Soumaya, so a great one to hit up next if you’re looking for contemporary art that is bold and unique.
Museo de Historia Natural y Cultura Ambiental — The natural and science museum that is also located in Chapultepec park.
Xochimilco — Experience the last remnants of the water system built by the Aztecs by getting on a “boat” to cruise the canals. You can also enjoy foods, snacks and even mariachi if you wish.
Palacio de Bellas Artes — A relatively small museum of a few floors located in the center of the city. If you’re in the area, it’s a quick stop to escape the heat or rain.
Shopping
ZII Ropa — All handmade in small batches just a few blocks from the store! I picked up a tank and jeans as seen here and here. My husband is also now a fan and picked up linen trousers and a shirt that he can’t stop raving about. Highly, highly recommend!
Audette — Located next door to ZII Ropa, it’s a handbag brand created by two French designers who moved to Mexico City a few years back. They offer uniquely shaped purses with sharp lines that remind me of sculptures. I was impressed by their vegan leather that is made from cactus.
Chava Studio — By appointment only, I don’t recommend (read: I very much recommend) unless you want to fall in love with everything and most likely walk out with a shirt. Ooof almost got ya there. I may or may not have a shirt in production. Stay tuned ;)
Aurelie — A recommendation by the sales associate at ZII Ropa that did not disappoint. They had a well curated collection of clothing, jewelry, purses, home decor and much more. It was one of those cute shoppy shops that are definitely worth stopping into. I am obsessed with the shape of this lazo inspired bag.
Concept Racer — A store that started out as a motorcycle shop that then turned into a clothing line. All designed by the owner who used to build and repair motorcycles for his clients. He was very kind and let us chat his ear off for a while. I had my husband try on a denim jacket while we were here and I ended up taking it home for myself.
Casa Bosques — A boutique bookstore that has one of the coolest book and magazine selections I’ve seen. They also have postcards if you love to send snail mail! We picked up lots to send after we returned back from CDMX. I even kept some without sending just because I loved the designs so much.
trendo.mx — We stumbled upon this store on a walk during our first visit to Mexico City and picked up some artesanias to bring home. They had my type of souvenirs that didn’t scream souvenirs. We picked up a small plate and a beautiful shot glass.
Marsella 68 — Another place I didn’t manage to make it to, but saved due to their highly curated boutique that ranges from clothes, books, and art. On the list for next time!
Pinguino — We didn’t manage to make it here, but we saved it for the selection of Mexican art they carry.
Sloan — By appointment only, I didn’t manage to snag an appointment here but I’ve been mesmerized by this blazer since I saw it.
Mercardo De Artesanias — This is where we shopped for silver due to timing and location. I recommend shopping around the different booths before making a decision. We went during the week and about half of the shops were open. My favorite shop was at the “back” entrance that was run by a man named Mario. The prices were very reasonable. Funny enough, a year ago we stayed at a hotel a few doors down and walked by this and completely missed it each time. It’s easy to miss if you’re not looking!
Pro tip: I would write down the prices you’re given before walking away. Some vendors will raise their price once you return and try to tell you otherwise. I would stay away from these types of vendors, but if they have what you want at least you’re prepared.
Talleres De Los Ballesteros — This was a rec I grabbed from
and her time in CDMX. She found the most beautiful bracelet. They had mainly silver pieces, including a variety of necklaces, rings, bracelets, and home decor. I didn’t find anything I had to have here, but definitely a low pressure shopping option if you prefer that. The prices were more expensive in comparison to Mercardo De Artesanias.Centro Joyero — We didn’t have time to go, but a local recommended this for gold. Our friends also mentioned it was a great place for silver. The prices were the cheapest they saw. For transparency, she is Mexican and speaks Spanish, which is helpful in navigating busy places like this. She mentioned it’s ginormous and has a lot more options than the Mercardo de Artesanias.
Miscellaneous
Farmacias Similares — the only place I found generic tretinoin (for $2 dollars!!!) and pimple patches. I’m convinced they have everything you could need even though they are very small in comparison to the larger pharmacies on the block.
Stay Vigilant
I’ve gone to Mexico countless times and I’ve never felt unsafe. Especially in Mexico City. However, one place I would most definitely stay away from is La Merced. We were told by locals and family that people get robbed in broad daylight. I’m only adding this here since this was a resounding do-not-go-there and stay away from this area.
I absolutely adore Mexico City, so I hope you enjoyed this list and save this for a future visit!
xx Ofelia
What a thorough roundup! I just forwarded this to a girlfriend who is planning a trip there with her husband for their upcoming anniversary. x
Saving for my trip in October! Thank you for putting this together, Ofelia!